Ricoh 35 EFS: Difference between revisions
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=== Observations === | |||
Ricoh 35 EF (silver) didn't have a self-timer and the EFS (black) did. | Ricoh 35 EF (silver) didn't have a self-timer and the EFS (black) did. | ||
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Camera has one left-hand-threaded screw, this is located in the charge mechanism in the base of the camera. This screw is a large-headed flathead screw which holds down two small anti-rotation burrs that move in a pleasant-to-watch alternating motion on the large wind gear they engage with. Watch out for a small washer on this screw, it's installed at the thread end of the stack, to keep the shoulder of the screw, which is a little bit too small, from getting too close to the plate. The hole in the washer is just big enough for the thread. | Camera has one left-hand-threaded screw, this is located in the charge mechanism in the base of the camera. This screw is a large-headed flathead screw which holds down two small anti-rotation burrs that move in a pleasant-to-watch alternating motion on the large wind gear they engage with. Watch out for a small washer on this screw, it's installed at the thread end of the stack, to keep the shoulder of the screw, which is a little bit too small, from getting too close to the plate. The hole in the washer is just big enough for the thread. | ||
Internal springs appear to be gold-plated bronze and are susceptible to corrosion. | Internal springs appear to be gold-plated bronze and are susceptible to corrosion. Battery terminals might be zinc-plated steel and don't solder well - probably because the zinc dissolved in battery acid. Terminals have projections where 0.1mm zinc strip can be spot-welded over the top, then soldered. | ||
After removing the | After removing the CdS cell and lens rings, the front cover comes off as a single piece (one of the cameras I opened had the ring with the CdS cell and ISO dial held in place with a small amount of glue - adding some IPA and rocking it back and forth got it out). Then, the baseplate, meter assembly, shutter, aperture, and lenses are demountable from the body as one assembly via 4 retaining screws. | ||
The front lens just screws onto the front of the rotating group 2 set, which has the helicoid thread inside the bottom of it. The last lens group sits inside a collar which has the other side of the helicoid on its outside. This collar is threaded at the base to screw into the base plate - this part holds the shutter assembly in place. When turning the focus ring, a flanged ring turns via a protruding lever. The lever and ring are attached to the lens group 2 with three setscrews (under pliable glue). When that group turns, some other attached rings are moved around (turning but also sliding back and forth in a slot in the plastic cover - the sliding motion controls the maximum aperture). | The front lens just screws onto the front of the rotating group 2 set, which has the helicoid thread inside the bottom of it. The last lens group sits inside a collar which has the other side of the helicoid on its outside. This collar is threaded at the base to screw into the base plate - this part holds the shutter assembly in place. When turning the focus ring, a flanged ring turns via a protruding lever. The lever and ring are attached to the lens group 2 with three setscrews (under pliable glue). When that group turns, some other attached rings are moved around (turning but also sliding back and forth in a slot in the plastic cover - the sliding motion controls the maximum aperture). | ||
[[File:Ricoh35EFS front assy.jpg.jpg|none|thumb|Front assembly with focus helicoid, meter, shutter, aperture]] | [[File:Ricoh35EFS front assy.jpg.jpg|none|thumb|Front assembly with focus helicoid, meter, shutter, aperture]]When reassumbling the CdS cell onto the front of the lens, make sure the ISO notch is engaged with the internal ring. | ||
=== Shutter === | |||
* [https://butkus.org/chinon/ricoh/ricoh_35_efs/ricoh_35_efs.htm Butkus manual location] | The shutter is tricky to assemble once taken apart, due to a spring that easily slips off a lever that isn't secured in position until it's all closed up. I think a better approach for next time may be to attach the spring with some loops of cotton or something that can be taken off afterwards. You can still access the innards of the shutter through the sides after it's put together (TODO: pictures). | ||
The shutter speed appears not to be adjustable but is around 1/150 to 1/200th of a second (supposed to be 1/125 from factory). | |||
=== Meter === | |||
The meter movement has a coil resistance of approx 1.1K ohms and is wired in series with a 10K potentiometer. Another ~6K pot is wired across the meter leads in order to adjust the total resistance of the whole package. These pots are generally set close to 3K each from the factory, but will need to be adjusted both for aging of the CdS cell and the the increased battery cell voltage. | |||
The CdS cell should have a resistance of about 4.5K when the camera is set to ISO 100, and when illuminated by an EV 15 light source. | |||
=== Flash === | |||
The flash capacitor used is a Rubycon "Photo Flash" 180uF 330v electrolytic. Guide number is 29 on my working example but was likely around 1 stop higher originally, judging by the automatic maximum aperture. | |||
The flash takes forever to charge the first time, but less subsequently. | |||
---- | |||
* [https://butkus.org/chinon/ricoh/ricoh_35_efs/ricoh_35_efs.htm Butkus user manual location] | |||
* There is no service manual available that I could find. | |||
Latest revision as of 00:39, 4 August 2025
Observations
Ricoh 35 EF (silver) didn't have a self-timer and the EFS (black) did.
This is a pretty straightforward camera internally.
Camera has one left-hand-threaded screw, this is located in the charge mechanism in the base of the camera. This screw is a large-headed flathead screw which holds down two small anti-rotation burrs that move in a pleasant-to-watch alternating motion on the large wind gear they engage with. Watch out for a small washer on this screw, it's installed at the thread end of the stack, to keep the shoulder of the screw, which is a little bit too small, from getting too close to the plate. The hole in the washer is just big enough for the thread.
Internal springs appear to be gold-plated bronze and are susceptible to corrosion. Battery terminals might be zinc-plated steel and don't solder well - probably because the zinc dissolved in battery acid. Terminals have projections where 0.1mm zinc strip can be spot-welded over the top, then soldered.
After removing the CdS cell and lens rings, the front cover comes off as a single piece (one of the cameras I opened had the ring with the CdS cell and ISO dial held in place with a small amount of glue - adding some IPA and rocking it back and forth got it out). Then, the baseplate, meter assembly, shutter, aperture, and lenses are demountable from the body as one assembly via 4 retaining screws.
The front lens just screws onto the front of the rotating group 2 set, which has the helicoid thread inside the bottom of it. The last lens group sits inside a collar which has the other side of the helicoid on its outside. This collar is threaded at the base to screw into the base plate - this part holds the shutter assembly in place. When turning the focus ring, a flanged ring turns via a protruding lever. The lever and ring are attached to the lens group 2 with three setscrews (under pliable glue). When that group turns, some other attached rings are moved around (turning but also sliding back and forth in a slot in the plastic cover - the sliding motion controls the maximum aperture).
When reassumbling the CdS cell onto the front of the lens, make sure the ISO notch is engaged with the internal ring.
Shutter
The shutter is tricky to assemble once taken apart, due to a spring that easily slips off a lever that isn't secured in position until it's all closed up. I think a better approach for next time may be to attach the spring with some loops of cotton or something that can be taken off afterwards. You can still access the innards of the shutter through the sides after it's put together (TODO: pictures).
The shutter speed appears not to be adjustable but is around 1/150 to 1/200th of a second (supposed to be 1/125 from factory).
Meter
The meter movement has a coil resistance of approx 1.1K ohms and is wired in series with a 10K potentiometer. Another ~6K pot is wired across the meter leads in order to adjust the total resistance of the whole package. These pots are generally set close to 3K each from the factory, but will need to be adjusted both for aging of the CdS cell and the the increased battery cell voltage.
The CdS cell should have a resistance of about 4.5K when the camera is set to ISO 100, and when illuminated by an EV 15 light source.
Flash
The flash capacitor used is a Rubycon "Photo Flash" 180uF 330v electrolytic. Guide number is 29 on my working example but was likely around 1 stop higher originally, judging by the automatic maximum aperture.
The flash takes forever to charge the first time, but less subsequently.
- Butkus user manual location
- There is no service manual available that I could find.
